No, there is no vegan sausage on the menu at Boonie Foods, but I wasn’t the first person to imagine there was.
“Yeah, I get a lot of that,” says Joe Fontelera, the former executive chef at Arami who in early March took his Filipino pandemic pop-up permanent at Revival Food Hall.
The “Vigan longganisa” instead refers to the sausage found around Vigan, the capital city of Ilocos province in the Philippines, where his grandmother was born. Fontelera is hardly the only chef who turned from fine dining to the familiar food of their mothers or
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