You’d think, after more than 30 years on the job, I’d never be wowed again by a chicken Parmesan, but Avanzare’s version is terrific, highlighted by a long-simmered tomato sauce that bursts with concentrated flavor. Veal limone is another expertly executed classic, with a nicely balanced lemon-caper-butter sauce that also graces the branzino, roasted in a sea-salt crust. (The branzino, $32.95, is one of the few dishes priced higher than $25, but it’s worth the splurge.)