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Wicker Park’s Tortello Pasta Palace Mesmerizes a Critic – Eater Chicago

Tortello puts on an “immersive pasta performance” in Wicker Park. The new Italian restaurant offers passersby an opportunity to watch products being made through the storefront window, which Mike Sula calls “a promotional act worthy of P.T. Barnum, just as mesmerizing but far more appetizing than ogling a Fiji mermaid.” The “assiduously al dente” pastas are available in options like chiusoni in saffron cream; prosciutto-stuffed capelli del prete in mushroom sauce; and tortelli filled with burrata. Airy focaccia also has a discernible crunch and when smeared with ricotta and honey, it becomes a “standout ancillary carb.” [Reader]

Phil Vettel reviews Next’s current José-Andrés-themed menu. The dishes are inspired by the celebrated chef’s greatest hits and span a number of different countries. It starts with a spread of tapas, featuring pan con tomate; crispy bread topped with sea urchin and lardo; and a “taco” of jamon Iberico topped with golden osetra caviar. Asian influences can be felt on kueh pai ti stuffed with shrimp, fermented black beans, and sweet chile sauce,
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